Cruise: Fremantle to Shark Bay

The title of this blog post might have been “Fremantle to Timor”. Two years ago, when I started planning our Western Australian sailing trip, my dream had been to continue all the way to Indonesia and Timor Leste. However, life’s diversions meant those northern climes would have to wait. This will be a speedy recap as almost a year has passed since we made this voyage.

We spent six days enjoying the hospitality of the Fremantle Sailing Club (FSC) and getting to know Perth’s port precinct. There was time for a short road trip to Margaret River, where the stunning caves were the highlight. The wine was to our liking too.

No trip to Western Australia (WA) would be complete without a visit to Rottnest Island, a nature reserve located just 10 nautical miles off the coast of Perth. The island is famous for its cute quokkas, and we were not disappointed on that front. The island's beaches are pleasant, albeit crowded, but we were underwhelmed by the huge number of boats making any form of seclusion impossible. We couldn’t wait to sail north in search of wild, empty places.

However, a cyclone was brewing in the north of the state, so it was prudent to return to Perth, this time to the friendly and affordable Hillarys Yacht Club (HYC). For five days, using HYC as our base, we waited out the big seas and strong winds raging up north. We explored more of Perth and caught up with my son and daughter-in-law who live nearby. The Aquarium Of Western Australia (AQWA) a short walk from HYC, with its underwater walkway, was a highlight. HYC’s Wednesday night dinner specials were a treat too.

Close encounter at AQWA.

On the morning of our departure, I was chauffeured around for last-minute provisions by my son, a luxury on sailing trips. We’d already received a large online order for most of our supplies, but there always seems to be another thing. Finally, at 13:42, we got underway. Two hours later the wind picked up and we were sailing at seven knots, but we only went as far as Two Rocks that night, 24 nautical miles away.

The following day, we sailed 83 nautical miles in moderate winds and following seas to Boullanger Island. We delayed going ashore until the next morning, when we walked around the island and were treated to thousands of Golden Ghost crabs (Ocypode convexa) clambering all over the beaches. In stark contrast to Rottnest, we had the island to ourselves, except for the crabs and birds.

Feisty Golden Ghost crab.

Afterwards, we anchored southwest of the Jurien Bay jetty and walked around the township. It was hot and dusty and there was little of interest for us, so we kept going. We made it as far as Green Head, 21 nautical miles to the north, where we sat out a near gale (28 knots). We hunkered down for the night at anchor, as I deemed it too windy to go ashore. Western Australia’s moniker, Windy Always, was beginning to sound very apt.

Finally, three days after leaving Perth, we pulled into Geraldton, where we claimed pride of place anchoring directly in front of the Geraldton Yacht Club (GYC). “Gero”, as the locals call it, is very convenient for boaties with all amenities within walking distance of the anchorage and/or marina.  We spent a few leisurely days exploring WA’s third-largest city, joining locals on the foreshore for morning coffees and free evening concerts and partaking of GYC’s Friday night dinner specials. The maritime museum is a must-visit for its haunting display of the Batavia shipwreck remains and its immersive exhibits, in particular, the stereoscopic 3D footage of the shipwreck of HMAS Sydney (II) in WWII.

For two days, we swapped our sea legs for land legs to rent a car and drove north to explore the town of Kalbarri and nearby Kalbarri National Park. The latter is Australia’s answer to Utah's scenery, with ancient, red-rock gorges carved by the Murchison River and towering coastal cliffs that plunge into the Indian Ocean. The only downside is that it was ridiculously hot in February, and would be better enjoyed later in the year.

Nature's Window at Kalbarri National Park.

On February 1st, we set sail for the Abrolhos Islands, which are approximately 30 nautical miles offshore. This archipelago of over one hundred islands is renowned for its stunning coral reefs and biodiversity, in particular, serving as a critical sanctuary for over two million breeding seabirds and most northerly habitat for the endangered Australian sea lion (top photo). The islands are also steeped in maritime history, most infamously the 1629 Batavia shipwreck and the gruesome survivor mutiny that followed.

We spent a week exploring the archipelago, though the low-lying islands offered little refuge from relentless winds. There are plenty of moorings, which are on a first come first serve basis, operated, as elsewhere in WA, by the Department of Biodiversity, Conservation and Attractions (DBCA). However, prior to visiting the Abrolhos you must apply online for a (free) permit with the Department of Primary Industries and Regional Development (DPIRD).

A poignant highlight was a dinghy ride to West Wallabi Island to visit the remnants of Wiebbe Haye’s 1629 fort, the oldest European structure in Australia. There, under his command, a group of loyal Batavia survivors successfully defended themselves from murderous mutineers.

We spent the last two nights moored at Turtle Bay on the northern shore of East Wallabi Island. There we enjoyed snorkeling and long coastal walks, disturbed only briefly by daytrippers flying in for a few hours from the mainland.

When it was time to return to the mainland, we headed for Gregory, 31 nautical miles, which took us just over five hours. The anchorage, which is protected by a rocky reef that parallels the coast, had several free moorings but we chose to anchor. Port Gregory, as it was once known, was once a bustling lead exporting port and lobster fishing town. In one of WWII’s more unusual events, a Japanese submarine fired about ten shells at the town in 1943, apparently mistaking the local lobster factory for a munitions plant. Fortunately, no one was injured. Today, the wharf is high and dry except at high tide and no longer usable for boats. Even fishing from it requires good casting skills just to reach the water.

The small town has a single general store and a caravan park, which included a much-needed laundromat. While waiting for our clothes to clean, we walked to the nearby Pink Lake. Officially known as Hutt Lagoon, this 70-square-kilometre marine salt lake is famous for its vivid pink hues. We had visited it earlier during our Kalbarri road trip but were keen to see it again.

Floating on the Pink Lake.

Our next destination was Shark Bay, a huge UNESCO World Heritage site renowned for its extraordinary marine biodiversity. We were eager to spot dugongs, as the vast seagrass meadows host the world's largest population. The landscape is striking, featuring some of Western Australia’s most dramatic coastal scenery where red cliffs, white sands, and aquamarine waters converge.

The southern entrance into Shark Bay, called the South Passage, can be a tricky passage with strong currents and tides, exacerbated by Indian Ocean swells. I didn’t want to cross this passage in darkness, so we anchored at False Entrance for the night, which offered good protection from the southwesterly wind.

Light winds and minimal swell the next morning made for a perfect South Passage crossing and by 11:39 we were anchored at the aptly-named Shelter Bay. After lunch, we went ashore and enjoyed a long walk along the beach, which we had to ourselves.

Arriba at Homestead Bay.

The next day we relocated to Homestead Bay. We’d heard the resort there had a beach bar, but it wasn't open yet, so we made a mental note to return. This would be just a brief exploratory foray to Shark Bay. A couple of days later, we turned around and retraced our path back to Geraldton, having sailed 737 nautical miles since leaving Fremantle.

We parked the boat in the Batavia Coast Marina for two weeks, returning to Adelaide for my son’s wedding and to tackle the "life admin" that had accumulated during our two-month absence.

OVER.

PS You may be wondering why we doubled all the way back to Geraldton, rather continuing north to a closer marina at Carnarvon. The answer lies in the fact that in the Australian insurance industry, the 26th parallel defines the line cyclone risk. Geraldton is on the (southern) safe side of that line, whereas Carnarvon is not.